WINTER GARDEN Diverse points of inspiration come together at Nina Ricci this season and culminate in what Peter Copping refers to as his “Winter Garden”. The opulence of the Belle Epoque is off-set by references to the gritty femininity of Pina Bausch’s work ‘Kontakthof’. Copping skillfully balances the two worlds. His silhouette plays on the extremes by implying the romantic and grand but, via a certain earthiness, creating the pared-down and poetic. Whether sumptuous or severe and constructed, Copping’s designs suggest an underlying strength. Gowns might have corsages or have seams left purposely unstitched; expect the unexpected. Colors which range from flesh, pastel tones to the heady and saturated: iris, fuchsia, lipstick red are grounded by a fervent use of black and grey.Fabrics further enhance the contrasts by emphasizing elaborate texture but also favouring the basic. Fur is fake, jacquard fabrics are cut on the reverse side, satin is intentionally creased, floral prints add freshness and naivety. Copping’s collection is intoxicatingly feminine but nothing overpowers. Waists are emphasized; pencil skirts remain sleek while large coats have dramatic proportions and volume. Throughout, Copping keeps an even keel by drawing upon Nina Ricci’s codes: the ribbons, bows, and lingerie and corsetry details. He succeeds in delivering sensual wearable clothes that define contemporary.